Musings and photos of wild and everyday life

Latest

Galapagos

Bartolome & Sandiago Is view from Bartolome Volcano GalapagosThere are some places in the world that are beyond the normal -  the Grand Canyon, the Great Barrier Reef …

The islands off the coast of Ecuador are in that class but offer something different.

They are remote, intriguing, volcanic.  They are of different ages and have different habitats.  But most of all they are teeming with wildlife and many of the species are endemic.

Most have not grown scared of us.

Marine Iguana Espanola race on rocky beach Punta Suarez Galapagos.

.

.

.

.

Marine Iguana Espanola race head resting on rock Gardner Bay GalapagosThere be monsters there!

Surrounded by such a sight, you have to be careful not to walk on them!

Sally Lightfoot Crab on rock Gardner Bay Espanola Galapagos

Even the crabs are ‘other-worldly’ in this lost paradise.

There are also the most delicate creatures, like the tiny Storm-petrel which can walk on water even in rough seas,

Elliots Storm_petrel walking on sea off Bartolome Isand Red-billed Red-billed Tropicbird flying off Floreana Is GalapagosTropicbirds.

Living on a boat and walking and smimming / snorkelling around the islands for a week is healthy as well as fascinating.

You get to sea both land and sea creatures.

The latter include the impressive

Galapagos Sea Lion M off beach Cero Brujo San Cristobal GalapagosGalapagos Sea Lions, which populate many of the beaches, patrol the shore-line and even ‘loll about’ on benches in the few island towns!

Galapagos Sea Lions resting Puerto Baquerizo Moreno seafront San ChristobalGalapagos Sea Lions on Gardner Bay beach Espanola IsOther mammals include the unhurried Galapagos Giant Tortoise, found on some higher grounds.

Galapagos Giant Tortoise eating leaves highlands centre Santa Cruz Is

On the aviation side, the attractions include Blue-footed Boobies (wonder did Elvis get inspiration here?),Blue-footed Booby flying Las Bachas Santa Cruz Galapagos

and  the ostentatious Magnificent Frigatebirds.Magnificent Frigatebird M displaying in bush nest Seymour North Galapagos

Brown Pelicans are a familiar sight.

Brown Pelican head Cero Brujo San Cristobal Galapagos

Despite all these amazing birds, the most impressive in some ways are the Waved Albatrosses

Waved Albatross flying over Punta Suarez Espanola GalapagosWaved Albatross calling Punta Suarez Espanola Galapagos

This really is a wild and fun place.  Hopefully it can withstand the intrusion of tourism.

Galapagos Sea lions playing off Rabida Is Galapagos

Lizzie 2012?

Blue Tit on Cotoneaster bush BG

Having cleaned out the camera nest box not too long ago, I was surprised to see the Blue Tits nearby recently and entering a couple of times.

The starlings had used their nest box on the garage over winter as a roost and had been a bit more active in the mild weather recently.  So just in case I checked the view in the Blue Tit box and was delighted to find a good base for a nest already in place.

I don’t know if it is the same pair or not but we’ll probably call herself Lizzie anyway.

Wishing them well for the future.

River Liffey. Part 1 Freshwater

Best known as Dublin’s river and for its tidal section Liffey running through Dublin Centre from airand port area, the river Liffey rises in county Wicklow and tumbles down gathering tributaries before calming and spreading out into Blessington Lakes.  it then crosses into Kildare and meanders around before ending up for only a small part of its journey, in Dublin.

Its source lies in the heathery bog land near Kippure mountain in a small dark peaty pool.Raven Silhouette over Liffey

Kippure from Liffey Head BridgeExpansive and fresh, this is the land of Ravens.  Their far-carrying ‘croak’ and unusual tail shape are distinctive.

In fact the area often looks pretty deserted of wildlife at first glance.  However patience will usually be rewarded and there is also plenty of insect and smaller  life in the water and bog nearby if the beauty of the landscape somehow doesn’t grab you.
Click Beetle at Liffey side

Grouse and other ‘game’ birds used to be reasonable common amongst the heather but I haven’t seen any up there in a long time.  The Liffey’s rocky descent continues through the Coronation Plantation, now looking more like a river.

Coronation Plantation & LiffeyHere Merlin can sometimes be seen while Grey Wagtails often flit from rock to rock.

Grey Wagtail F flying Liffey BallysmuttonDippers like fast water with plenty of insects and bugs and this section of the Liffey is nearly ideal.Dipper with food Liffey

Dippers nest at a number of locations along the river, each pair keeping a lenght of river for their territory.  Sand Martins also nest here where the river bank is suitable.

Sand Martin flying LiffeyAs the river descends further in a wide meandering circle around Dublin, the volume of water increases and the flow becomes a bit calmer.  It flows through Blessington Lakes where Great Crested Grebes and a variety of Duck can be seen including Goldeneye.  Past the Poolaphuca dam and power station the river enters Kildare.  getting nearer Dublin, Herons become more common.Heron on Lock Liffey Lucan

Reaching Dublin the water is non-tidal up beyond the Strawberry Beds.  Birds such as Cormorants, Swans  and Little Grebes come to the fore. Cormorant Flying over Liffey3 Swans on Liffey Dublin

.

.

.

Serenity is now disappearing as the Liffey Little Grebe & young Liffeyencounters the buzz of the city.

Don’t Despair, it’s Nice Out There

Just a little reminder that although the Summer is well over , Autumn Leaves & Shankill River in Cloughleagh woods, Wicklowsome of our best days are ahead.

Crisp days in Winter are amongst the best for getting out and enjoying the view and the colours in Autumn and early Winter are very special.

So get out, get walking and smell the humus!

Wildlife – Saint Stephen’s Green Dublin

Right in the heart of Dublin City, Lake SSG DublinSt. Stephen’s Green is an oasis from shops and offices.  People come here to relax, to hear music from the bandstand, to sunbathe and to have their sandwich for lunch.

But this small green haven is also an oasis for wildlife.  A small stream and waterfall feed a lake / pond and a mixture of well kept lawn and flower beds contrast beautifully with large trees and thick bushes.

The lake is the usual focus for people looking for wildlife and as usual this is well represented by Ducks.

Mallard are the most numerous but there are a good few Tufteds.

In late Summer the ducks moult and tend to sit around in lazy non-descript groups keeping their feathers dry.

It is one of those places where a pocket camera can deliver good pictures.

.

Mallard Duck M St Stephens Green Dublin
.

While common, Mallard, at least the males, have really brilliant colours that change depending on the angle of view and the sun.

.

.

.

.

Male Tufted Ducks on the other hand are very formal Black and White and seem to resemble the shape of the bathroom ‘rubber duck’.

Tufted Duck M St Stephens Green

.

.

.

.

From time to time more exotic ducks arrive.  This year there were a few Mandarin Ducks.  The female  below was resching for the Willow leaves for which they have a ‘sweet tooth’.

Mandarin Duck F or juv reaching for willow SSG

Lesser Black_backed Gull St Stephens Green Dublin

Regarding the ever-present Gulls, Black-headed and Herring Gulls predominate but other species can be seen like this Lesser Black-backed Gull which has yellow legs and whose back is a grey in between the light grey of the Herring Gull and the near black of the Great Black-backed Gull.

.

Common birds such as Robins, Chaffinches, Rooks, Thrushes and Blackbirds roam freely here.

Blackbird M St Stephens Green.

As they are used to people, it is often possible to get closer than usual so that more details of the birds can be seen.  It is hard to beat whiling away a few minutes in the city park with a Blue-tit taking a bath right beside you.

Blue Tit bathing St Stephens Green

Mute Swan drinking St Stephens GreenEveryboby’s idea of a park bird, the Mute Swan, is accessible as always but nore unusually, Herons can sometimes be seen up close if care is taken.

Heron on Rock SSG DublinMammals live in the park too but as usual are not as easily seen.  Grey Squirrel SSGMost of the rodents such as Rats and Mice go about their foraging largely un-noticed.   Not so the Grey Squirrel which is now unfortunately found in most of the city’s parks.

.

.

.

Young Foxes playing SSG

A surprise for many will be the foxes which live in the park and go mostly unseen!  How many commuters pass by with heads bowed or with heavy thoughts and unseeing eyes on warm mornings when the foxes sunbathe or frolic in the foliage?

Let’s close this short view of the park’s wildlife with a common, likeable bird, the Moorhen.

Strong colours, a busy demeanour and huge feet make them, for me, the cutest of the parks residents.

Every year they nest and rear young, many of whom are killed by predators.  Many times their nests are flooded or vandalised and yet they rebuild.  No wonder they are so common in waterways around the country.

Moorhen struggling with large leaf on nest SSG pond
Moorhen looking to feed baby SSG pond
Moorhen baby walking in pond SSG.

.

.

.

.

Finally a big thanks to all those responsible for keeping the park so clean and vibrant and a home for so many wild things.

Flower display SSG

Wildlife in Dublin City

Dublin from WestAlthough we often prefer to go somewhere quiet to watch birds and wildlife, there are many opportunities and good places in Dublin city.

The streets see common birds such as Gulls, Crows, Robins and starlings.  There is even the odd Peregrine.

But there are also a number of good places such as parks and waterways where birds, rabbits and foxes can be regularly seen.  These include the Phoenix Park, the Liffey, Trinity College, Blessington Basin, the Grand Canal and Saint Stephen’s Green.  I will do posts on some of these separately but here are some of the birds regularly seen in the city centre.Hooded Crow on wall with pedestrians Clanwilliam Place Dublin 

.

.

In many cases the birds have become used to people and provided you don’t go too close or make sudden movements they can be quite close.

This closeness with nature feeling does help to take the edge of the concrete jungle.

For photography purposes, this means that a very long zoom is often not needed.

Herring Gull paddling for insects Dublin
Wood Pigeon Dublin

.

.

.

.

.

Grassy oases around the city, can harbour a number of birds such Woodpigeons and Magpies, foraging or nesting.   Herring Gulls often ‘paddle’ their feet to disturb insects in the grass or soil.

Magpie Denzille Lane Dublin

‘In trees on some of the busy streets, such as O’Connell Street,  Wagtails, Starlings and Long-tailed Tits often roost in numbers in the winter.

It can also be surprising to see the places that birds find for nest sites in what seems at first sight a forbidding mass of hard surfaces.

Blue Tit coming out of Nest hole Dublin Castle

Other wilflife includes rats which have been a feature of Dublin for centuries, foxes which are becoming more and more common in our cities and Squirrels.

The Reds are a bit timid for cities and in any case are being overrun by the Greys which now inhabit a number of Dublin parks including Phoenix Park, Merrion Square and Stephen’s Green.Grey Squirrel in grass Merrion Square

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Insects of course are ever present but some go largely un-noticed.

Scale insects can be seen on many trees but look more like a fungus, if they are noticed at all.

Scale Insects on tree Dublin Castle

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Still most people’s favourite is the Robin.  Alll the parks in Dublin have friendly Robins that come very close as you sit, especially if you have a sandwich!

Robin juv on tree Merrion Square Dublin

Great Saltee

It really is a great place.Great Saltee

I have only been there twice but it has to be one of my favourite places in the world. 

I’ts not any any one thing.  You can see seabird colonies easier in Howth for example.  You can find ‘nicer’ islands where you can swim and sunbathe  with less disturbance and with good beaches.   There are much bigger seabird colonies in the UK and even in Ireland,  No it is the brilliant combination of super birds, good climate, off-shore location and the immediate belief that you are somewhere special.

The island is known for its sea-birds but its remoteness makes it a happy habitat for many small birds and of course, birds of Prey.  Also being so southerly, it is a good spot for migrating birds.

Razorbill on cliff, Great Saltee
Kittiwake on cliff nests, Great Saltee

.

The ‘normal’ seabirds are here, clinging on to the cliffs like goats on mountain ledges. Razorbills with their heavy looking beaks on tiny cliff ledges and Kittiwakes – sort 0f black legged sea-gulls – on whatever bit of grass they can find on the sheer cliffs.

Just to look at them is exhilerating.

.

.

.

.

.

Bridled Guillemot on side of cliff, Great SalteeFulmar flying in wind, Great Saltee

Razorbill taking off from cliff Great Saltee
Guillemots, auks, like the Razorbill, are also common.

This one is a ‘Bridled’ Guillemot, named after the monacle like stripe and circle on each eye.

Fulmars are here, often in the best nest sites. Like many other species here, they are hardly seen during most of the year, flying far out to sea, but they come to the cliffs to nest during the summer.

They look like Gulls but the tube on their bills relate them to the Albatrosses.

They have near complete mastery of the wind and fly with stiff wings.

The wind plays a big part in birds’ lives here, as at all cliff sites. Birds have to master landing on sharp edged rocks and just imagine launching yourself off a tiny ledge over rough sea far below the theacherous cliffs.

Birds use every bit of surface area to effect uplift when taking off, like this Razorbill with wings, tail and feet used to the maximum.
Razorbill offering sand eels Great Saltee

.

Food is also key, both from a successful feeding and rearing point of view, as well as in formal rituals such as courting. The favoureed meal is Sand Eels and the availability of this food source generally dictates the success of the nesters each year.

Recently there has been a decline in Sand Eel numbers, believed to be due to climate change but also possibly due to over-fishing. Birds have been trying to make-do with other food but initial results look poor and the number of nests around our cliffs seems to have decreased.

Apart from the Black Guillemot, all our resident auks nest here. I seem to remember Black Guillemots nesting on cliffs when I was young, although that was a while ago. In any case they now seem to be more often seen in harbours and river mouths and they even nest and are commonly seen in the centre of Dublin.

Cormorants and Shags both have colonies of ragged nests. Other common birds here include Chiffchaffs, Wheatear, Reed Buntings, Rock Pipits and Choughs, while there are many Grey Seals around the coast.

Great Black_backed Gull approaching nest & Eggs Great Saltee
Gannet Colony section Great Saltee
.

.

Above the Cliffs, Great and Lesser Black-backed Gulls nest.

The Great Black-backs are the perennial marauders and poachers and have a great view of unattended nests and babies from their high vantage points.

But the Saltees are best known for 2 bird species.

The first is quite obvious when you approach.
Gannet Colony section Great Saltee

Huge numbers of Gannets whirl in the air and dive straight down from a height for fish in the sea and 2 spots – one sea stack and one headland – are almost obscured in summer by Gannets and Gannet nests.

The nests are packed in, spaced to leave only enough room to avoid neighbouring beaks!

Apart from the noise and constant motion, the other noticable feature is the strong smell!

Overhaed there is constant activity with birds landing, taking off or over-flying looking for their patch, their nest or their chick.

Gannet flying overhead Great Saltee

.

.

.

.

.

It is hard not to be impressed by this magnificent bird, even from a distance. Up close and personal, it is even more impressive.

Firstly it is big – the wings are nearly 2 metres wide and flying over you there is no mistaking who is the master!

Secondly, it looks great; white with black wing tips and a lovely pale yelow colour on the head.

Finally it seems to be built for speed or more precisely, for reducing air and water drag. Both ends, head and tail, are tapered and the eyes are recessed, making it perfect for diving through the air at spped, with wings swept back and cutting through the water to catch fish.

.

.

.
Gannets approaching main runway Great Saltee
.

.

.

.

Just like an airport, the wind direction determines the prevailing runway and a stream of Gannets follow each other into the air or back into the colony.

.

.

.

.

.

Gannet looking down at colony Great Saltee

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Gannet on nest Great Saltee

.

.

.

.

Is that a streamlined beak and head or what?

.

.

.

.

.

The nest is a simple mound of seaweed and vegeatation and there is usually only 1 egg which is hatched after about 6 weeks.

Gannet babies Great Saltee

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

The chicks start out as white balls of fluff but gradually turn black as the skin shows through.

They are fed for about 8 weeks before leaving to turn into white adults after a couple of years.

.

Puffin on cliff top Great Saltee

.

.

.

The other speciality here is the cutest and reason enough on its own, to come here

.

.

Puffins nest in burrows at the top of the cliffs. They are very small, only around 30 cms head to tail and their wings seem too small to carry their puffy bodies. But when they fly, the wings extend more than you expect and seem to whirr to keep them airborne.

Puffin on cliff Great SalteeSea Parrots or Clowns they may be called but when you see them in their home habitat, it’s all other birds that look silly!

.

If there were no birds here this would be a special place.

.

With huge numbers of birds it is one of the places you just have to visit.

.

But with all that and Gannets and Puffins and a magical persona, its a little piece of heaven!

Puffins overlooking bay Great Saltee

Sardinia E

Moving towards the East side of SardiniaWild Lavender Gennargentu Area Sardinia, wild flowers were still in abundance.  It was brilliant to see and smell Thyme, Lavender and other herbs growing wild in the hills and especially around the Gennargentu mountains. This is a special area with pigs roaming fairly freely, birds flying great scenery and relatively few people.

The descent to Cala Gonone – our HQ for the second half of the week – is through a tunnel from Dorgali which lightens to reveal a great vista of sea, town, hills and shitch-backs.

Cala Gonone vista from Tunnel Sardinia.

.

.

.

.

Spotless Starling Orgosolo Sardinia
Spotless Starling (Sturnus unicolor)

Being in the middle of the Med, you’d expect the birds to be a bit different.

The usual Gull is the Yellow-legged Gull (see previous post); the main crow is Hooded; the common Sparrow is of the Spanish variety and the Starlings are Spotless. Actually, the island itself is also fairly clean, although we were there before the tourist season really took off.Spanish Sparrow Male on chair back hotel

We stayed in a hotel above the North end of town with great views of the coast that also brought us closer to the cliffs and wildlife.Cala Luna & Caves S of Cala Gonone Sardinia

Easily seen wildlife included Alpine and Pallid (see previous blog) Swifts, the ubiquitous Sardinian Warbler,

Alpine Swift flying Cala Gonone Sardinia
Alpine Swift flying Cala Gonone Sardinia
Sardinian Warbler Male
Male Sardinian Warbler

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Dragonflies and Italian Wall lizards.
Italian Wall Lizard
Emperor Dragonfly Male

Cirl Buntings were also reasonably numerous and we saw a few Purple Herons
Cirl Bunting Female Orgosolo E Sardinia
Purple Heron flying Lago di Tortoli Sardiniabut I was delighted to see an Eleanora’s Falcon flying over the cliffs. Eleanoras Falcon flying,Sardinia

These have a well established and known breeding colony off the SW of the island.

There is also a Griffon Vulture colony – reasons, if needed, to return!

Cala Gonone Pier Sardinia from boat

Sardinia NW

This is a place I always wanted to visit and it didn’t dissapoint.Alghero & coast Sardinia from South  It is an island in the middle of the Med which has managed to keep its charm despite growing tourism.

Lesser Kestrel M NW Coast Sardinia nr StintinoWherever you go there are birds and if you go in early summer, the weather is great – not too hot and the the island is still green.  We started our week in the NW, based in Alghero.  Nearby are a number of good places to watch birds, especially just to the North.

Apart from the sunshine, birds  and brilliant views, what struck us was the amount of wild flowers.

Wild Flowers & coast S of Alghero Sardinia

Birdwise, it was not hard to see many birds in the NW including  Lesser Kestrel, Squacco Heron, Little Egret, Black-winged Stilt and Marsh Harrier.

Squacco Heron flying over marsh NW SardiniaLittle Egret flying over marsh & Black-winged Stilt NW SardiniaMarsh Harrier F flying over marsh NW SardiniaRelatively common were Spotted Flycatchers  as well as Swifts while Bee-eaters could be seen in the country-side.Spotted Flycatcher Calabona Hotel Alghero SardiniaBee-eater on wire NW Sardinia

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Pallid Swift flying Alghero SardiniaBoth Alpine and Pallid Swifts can be seen chasing flies in the air.

.

.

.

.

.

The common Gulls here are Yellow-legged and I was pleased to see Little Terns.
Yellow-legged Gull scratching Stintino Sardinia
Little Tern at saline pool NW Sardinia

,

,

,

It’s a place you would like to visit with a long lens, tripod and more birding time. Sun setting from Calabona Hotel Alghero SardiniaLighthouse on Capo Caccia from boat

On the other hand, the beautiful scenery, caves, coast and unspoilt nature makes it a great place for a combined holiday / bird trip.Formations in Grotto di Nettuno NW Sardinia

Alghero Sardinia from S at twilight

Alghero Sardinia from South at twilight

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.